The gemstone guide : how to choose the perfect one

08/28/24
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Panconesi Encyclopedia Hybrid Stones - Poster by Panconesi
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« Each gemstone is a world of its own»

- Roger Caillois

At WHITEbIRD, we are passionate about gemstones—their history, virtues, and unique beauty. While this passion shines through in our selection of designer jewellery, we also love to share knowledge about these incredible stones. Whether in one of our three boutiques or online, we're here to help you find the perfect piece that truly speaks to you.

There are countless ways to choose a gemstone. Here, we explore three key criteria that can guide you in making the right choice or simply enlighten you about the topic.

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  1. SIGNIFICANCE AND VIRTUES: BIRTHSTONE CALENDAR

For centuries, gemstones have been imbued with symbolic and spiritual meanings. The tradition of birthstones dates to Antiquity when the 12 gemstones on the breastplate of Aaron, the High Priest (as described in the Old Testament), were associated with the months of the year and zodiac signs. Wearing one’s birthstone is believed to bring protection, luck, and healing. Each month is connected to a specific stone, closely tied to astrological signs and their energies.

Gemstones influence emotions while having distinct geological characteristics. Here's a look at each birthstone, its emotional benefits, chemical properties, and origins.

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January – Garnet

  • Zodiac Sign: Capricorn and Aquarius

  • Personality: Michelle Obama

  • Chemical Properties: Calcium and aluminium silicate

  • Origin: India, Madagascar, USA

 Garnet is a stone deeply connected to vital energy. Emotionally, it strengthens determination and courage, providing stability during times of change. It’s also known for protection, boosting energy, and purifying negative emotions. Ideal for those seeking to overcome fears and ground their emotions. Garnet is typically found in metamorphic rock regions such as India and Madagascar.

See our garnet jewellery selection.

February – Amethyst

  • Zodiac Sign: Aquarius and Pisces

  • Personality: Rihanna

  • Chemical Properties: Silicon dioxide (SiO₂)

  • Origin: Brazil, Uruguay, Zambia

Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz renowned for its calming effects. It soothes anxiety, anger, and stress while enhancing meditation and spiritual connection. This stone purifies emotions, clearing the mind to allow for inner peace. Its violet colour comes from iron traces and natural irradiation. The finest specimens are sourced from South America and Africa.

See our amethyst jewellery selection.

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March – Aquamarine 

- Zodiac Sign: Pisces and Aries

- Personality: Pier Paolo Pasolini

- Chemical Properties: Beryllium aluminium silicate

- Origin: Brazil, Pakistan, Nigeria

 Aquamarine, part of the beryl family, is celebrated for its calming blue hues. Emotionally, it would support sincere communication and help soothe anxiety, encouraging personal expression. Its gentle energy would dissolve tension and promote harmony. Aquamarine is primarily mined in Brazil and Pakistan.

See our aquamarine jewellery selection

April – Diamond

- Zodiac Sign: Aries and Taurus
- Personality: Emma Watson
- Chemical Properties: Pure carbon
- Origin: South Africa, Russia, Canada

Diamonds are composed of crystallized pure carbon and would symbolize strength and purity. Emotionally, they would bring clarity, protection, and help maintain focus. Most diamonds come from South Africa, Russia, and Canada.

See our diamond jewellery selection

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May – Emerald

- Zodiac Sign: Taurus and Gemini

- Personality: Audrey Hepburn

- Chemical Properties: Beryllium aluminium silicate with traces of chromium

Origin: Colombia, Zambia, Brazil

Emerald, another variety of beryl, is famed for its vibrant green hue, due to the presence of chromium. Emotionally, it would represent unconditional love, fostering compassion and harmony. This stone would awaken the heart and bring balance and inner peace, helping to heal emotional wounds. The finest emeralds come from Colombia, but they are also found in Zambia and Brazil.

See our emerald jewellery selection

June – Pearl

- Zodiac Sign: Gemini and Cancer

- Personality: Lana Del Rey

- Chemical Properties: Calcium carbonate

- Origin: Japan, China, Polynesia

Pearls, formed within mollusks, are not technically gemstones but organic gems. They would symbolise purity and innocence, fostering elegance and emotional tranquility. Pearls would promote harmony in relationships and soothe emotions. Cultured pearls mainly come from Japan, China, and tropical Polynesian waters. Designers like Sophie Bille Brahe and Lia di Gregorio have embraced pearls, from classic solitaire pieces to avant-garde designs. Recently, pearls have made a comeback, notably with men's pearl necklaces on runways and in jewellery boxes.

See our pearl jewellery selection

Sonia Ichti wears brooke gregson ruby necklace
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July – Ruby

- Zodiac Sign: Cancer and Leo
- Personality: Charlotte Gainsbourg
- Chemical Properties: Aluminium oxide with traces of chromium
- Origin: Myanmar, Thailand, Sri Lanka

Ruby, a variety of corundum, gets its striking red colour from chromium. Emotionally, it would represent passion and vitality, enhancing emotional energy and motivation. Ruby would help overcome fear and boost self-confidence while amplifying love and joy. The most famous rubies come from Myanmar, with additional sources in Thailand and Sri Lanka.

See our ruby jewellery selection

August – Peridot

- Zodiac Sign: Leo and Virgo
- Personality: Yves Saint Laurent
- Chemical Properties: Iron and magnesium silicate
- Origin: United States (Arizona), Pakistan, China

Peridot is a bright green gemstone formed deep within the Earth, often brought to the surface by volcanic activity. It is believed to bring prosperity and protection, promoting emotional healing and renewal. Peridot could help dispel anger and irritation, fostering inner peace. Major sources include Arizona, Pakistan, and China.

See our peridot jewellery selection

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bague diana we by whitebird or diamants et tourmaline verte

September – Sapphire

  • Zodiac Sign: Virgo and Libra

  • Personality: Beyoncé

  • Chemical Properties: Aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃)

  • Origin: Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Madagascar

Sapphire, another variety of corundum, symbolises wisdom and loyalty. It may promote emotional balance and help dispel doubts and fears, making it ideal for those seeking stability and truth in relationships. Sri Lanka and Myanmar are famed for their sapphire deposits, with Madagascar also being a major producer.

See our sapphire jewellery selection

 

October – Tourmaline

- Zodiac Sign: Libra and Scorpio
- Personality: Serena Williams
- Chemical Properties: Complex silicate of boron and aluminium
- Origin: Brazil, Madagascar, Afghanistan

Tourmaline, known for its multicolour hues, is recognised for its ability to balance and harmonise emotions. It could help reduce stress, foster calm, and strengthen emotional resilience. Found in Brazil and Madagascar, tourmaline is often extracted from granite rocks. This stone is one of WHITEbIRD's favourites ones, featured across various designs, especially in our We by WHITEbIRD collections like Diana and Grace!

See our tourmaline jewellery selection

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influencer gemma janes wearing anaconda gold ring with topaze

November – Citrine

- Zodiac Sign: Scorpio and Sagittarius
- Personality: Sophie Marceau
- Chemical Properties: Silicon dioxide
- Origin: Brazil, Russia, Madagascar

Citrine, with its golden hues, is an energising stone believed to promote joy and optimism—fitting given its name's link to "citrus." It is said to help overcome negativity and encourage a positive outlook, boosting self-confidence and creativity. Citrine is ideal for those seeking to cultivate positivity and attract abundance. The finest specimens are found in Brazil and Madagascar.

See our citrine jewellery selection

December – Topaz

- Zodiac Sign: Scorpio and Sagittarius
- Personality: David Bowie
- Chemical Properties: Aluminium and fluorine silicate
- Origin: Brazil, Russia, Pakistan

Topaz, often colourless or golden, is thought to enhance mental clarity and emotional strength. It may calm a restless mind, offering peace and relaxation, while promoting honesty and self-confidence. Topaz deposits are largely found in Brazil, Russia, and Pakistan.

See our topaz jewellery selection

 Each birthstone holds both a chemical origin from the Earth and an emotional dimension linked to the wearer’s inner balance. Whether alleviating stress, boosting creativity, or encouraging self-confidence, these gems are natural works of art, shaped over millions of years.

To filter easily your search by stone on our website, explore our STONES AND METALS GUIDE.

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© Elhanati
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Celebrate your love with designer jewellery

Milestone anniversaries are also the perfect time to mark your journey together with precious stones. Like your story, these gems gain beauty and depth over time. Each wedding anniversary holds a symbolic stone, reflecting the growth and strength of your relationship:

  • 11 years: Coral

  • 16 years: Sapphire

  • 18 years: Turquoise

  • 21 years: Opal

  • 25 years: Silver

  • 26 years: Jade

  • 30 years: Pearl

  • 34 years: Amber

  • 35 years: Ruby

  • 40 years: Emerald

  • 42 years: Mother of Pearl

  • 44 years: Topaz

  • 48 years: Amethyst

  • 50 years: Gold

  • 52 years: Tourmaline

  • 56 years: Lapis-Lazuli

  • 60 years: Diamond

Explore our designer engagement rings selection.

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Ethics: how we source our stones

At WHITEbIRD, we are conscious of the ethical challenges in the jewellery industry. That’s why all the designers we select use high-quality stones that are at least responsibly sourced or certified Conflict-Free under the Kimberley Process.

With a deep respect for the sovereign brilliance of diamonds, we constantly seek to inspire designers and clients to explore lesser-known stones and materials filled with rich inner gardens.

"I choose each piece as if I were to wear it myself. Many are unique pieces, and our wide collection is frequently enriched with new jewellery and new designers. The designers I select live life to the fullest. They travel the world in search of inspiration and astonishing stones. We've developed a rich relationship centred around a shared passion. WHITEbIRD is a story of transmission, of human connections that we live daily, for our greatest pleasure, with our clients." – Stéphanie Roger, founder of WHITEbIRD

All the stones used in the jewellery of our brand We by WHITEbIRD, crafted in recycled gold, are natural, certified by the Kimberley Process, and carefully selected one by one, in collaboration with our French workshop located in Jaipur.

OPALS:

Wwake is unique as it offers complete transparency and traceability in its opal supply chain, from the mine to the finished piece of jewellery.

"It took me three years to build a genuine relationship with a responsible miner and cutting workshop that can produce the range of opals that speak to WWAKE’s clients. If I can spend extra time aligning all these pieces together, then that's magic; that’s when we are all connected. From that connection, I can implement initiatives with a deeper impact. I am interested in developing a program or offset in Australia to contribute to the environmental sustainability of opal mining." – Wing Yau, founder of Wwake

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RECYCLED DIAMONDS:

 Recycled diamonds are like the "upcycling" of jewellery! These diamonds have previously been used in older jewellery pieces. They are unset and then remounted in new designs. Héloïse & Abélard is the first Parisian Maison to create all its jewellery using recycled diamonds.

"Together with a team of diamond experts, I select high-quality diamonds to recycle in France; they are remounted from second-hand jewellery bought at auctions or from individuals, antique dealers. Our second-hand diamonds are G/H colour, and VS/SI clarity." – Héloïse Schapiro, founder of Héloïse & Abélard

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS:

For the first time since its inception, WHITEbIRD welcomes Mazarin, a visionary and creative brand using exclusively lab-grown diamonds.

"As jewellery historians, we know that every era brings with it new resources, techniques, or trends. We believe lab-grown diamonds are the resource of our time. As gemologists, we can confirm that they possess the exact same chemical and optical properties as mined diamonds, unlike imitations, while addressing many of the current issues in the mining industry." – Mazarin

To find out more about our commitments and our ethical jewellery, we invite you to explore our article: Ethics, designer jewellery also has its say

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Aesthetic Stones: Natural Works of Art

At WHITEbIRD, each piece of jewellery is more than just an accessory; it's a true work of art. Choosing jewellery is akin to selecting a painting—not for its perfection but for the unique emotion it evokes. Our designers are the artists of this precious gallery, working with a palette of stones in one-of-a-kind shapes and colours.

Like skilled painters, they craft jewellery filled with energy and history. We love offering stones that aren’t “perfect,” because their imperfections make them truly unique. Diamonds with inclusions, as seen in the works of Noguchi, Cathy Waterman, and Yasuko Azuma, reveal rare beauty, where each detail tells a distinct story. It's this imperfection that grants each stone its unique aesthetic value.

WHITEbIRD is primarily a gallery open to jewellery designers. Here, we showcase pieces that, like works of art, challenge conventional norms. Our creative artists highlight unconventional forms and colours of precious stones, vibrant gems that capture poetic moments while adding a contemporary and unique aesthetic to those who wear them.

Among our designers, Los Angeles-based jewellery artist Brooke Gregson masterfully explores the magic of coloured stones. She celebrates their authenticity and their ability to awaken deep emotions:

 "I believe certain stones can have a more significant impact on a person’s emotions through their unique colour, inclusions, and depth. I’ve always loved the layers of character that a unique stone can hold. Natural stones can truly tell a story, revealing the character of the wearer and their own beauty." (link to her interview)

In this same pursuit of creativity and exploration of form, Panconesi disrupts the traditional codes of jewellery design with its hybrid stones, blending reality and illusion. Inspired by natural mineral formations, these trompe-l'œil creations, dipped in pigmented enamel and topped with crystals or opals, bring unexpected, almost mystical, colours and shapes to life. They embody jewellery in constant evolution, where each piece becomes a manifesto of artistic freedom.

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Gemstones, museum and literature: some references 

For those passionate about stones and poetry, we highly recommend reading L’écriture des pierres by Roger Caillois. This book is a poetic exploration into the soul of minerals, where Caillois—an esteemed writer, sociologist, and mineral collector—unveils the magic of nature through prose. He reveals the internal structures and forms of stones, inviting us to view them as natural works of art, with each inclusion serving as a window into the invisible.

Lastly, for a visually captivating experience, a visit to the Mineralogy Museum in Paris is a must. Housing over 100,000 mineral samples, gems, and precious stones, the museum offers an immersive dive into the fascinating world of minerals, with each stone telling a millennia-old story.

Address: 60 Boulevard Saint-Michel, 75006 Paris
For more information, visit their official website.

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L'écriture des pierres, Roger Caillois, 1994
musée de minéralogie de Paris
Musée de Minéralogie de Paris
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